Trichomoniasis - Canker in pigeons
Trichomoniasis (or canker, by its common name used by most fanciers) is the most common disease of the racing pigeons. It is said that most of the pigeons are infested with canker during their lives, but it rarely shows symptoms of the disease in mature birds. However, stress can trigger a serious growth of trichomonads producing canker and the disease starts to affect the pigeon. It looks ruffled, stops to feed loosing weight and if not treated, it soon dies. Youngsters are the most affected. This is why fanciers use to treat them against canker right after weaning. I personally don’t treat my youngsters so that they can build immunity. I only treat before the first races, when the stress comes into the scene. If the birds can’t stay healthy with minimum levels of stress, they have to go. This is how I did last year, and this year also (2007) and my young pigeons were fine.
The old birds introduce small amounts of trichomonads to the nestlings while feeding them, and so they develop immunity.
Signs of canker:
- Repeated swallowing movements can be a sign of canker. I usually notice this after the birds land on the loft, after the training
- yellow stuff in the throat and beak of the bird
- ruffled plumage
- apathy of the bird
- weight loss and weakness
- increased water intake - this also produces the so called “wet nests” when the parents having canker pump a lot of water in the nestlings
- the birds are reluctant to fly
Trichomonas, being a flagellate, can propel itself in fluids. So, usually “clean” pigeons get it very easy during the transport when hundreds of pigeons drink from the same place.
The disease has several forms:
Pharyngeal Form is the most common. Fanciers will usually notice yellow stuff in the throat of the bird. In severe cases, the yellow stuff can inhibit feeding and even breathing.
Umbilical canker passes from the infected nest box into the body of the young bird still in the nest.
Organ Form: In the most severe cases, canker will attack internal organs. It is often found in the liver. Some signs might be apathy, ruffled plumage and diarrhea. Most of these birds die of liver failure.
Ronidazole is the most used drug in treating the canker in pigeons. Lately, dimetridazole and metronidazole were removed from the market being risky for health.
what risk of dimetridazole for health?
Well i dont know how to help my pigeon he has Canker and he can not move and i dont know what to do so plz if you know how to help me plz do!!!!
Nothing.
Unfortunately, I’ve got an offspring of a v good homing Pigeon pair who has got this disease. The poor baby bird has got pain, it’s not easy to tkae breath,he can’ eat. I hate this tricho and today I’m talking to a friend of mine who is a vet and not just a vet, fortunately he’s a Homing Pigeon racer and breeder as well. I hope we can save my baby.
Be careful with this ugly, disgusting disease, it is in everybody’s loft.
Alan, if the pigeon cannot move, the problem isn’t canker, maybe Salmonella.
Steve, the easiest way to avoid this disease is to stop breeding from couples that produce YBs that get tricho very easy. 4 years ago when I started, most of my YBs were getting it, even after treatments. What I did was to stop breeding from couples that produced such babies, and also stop treating the isolate cases. The strength of the birds is amazing now. I didn’t give ANY medication for my young birds this year and they were all fine, very healthy, flying like crazy and so on. Let nature select the strongest and you’ll love the final product.
my pigeon came home after 6months…the skin around her eyes are all red.body,not in good condition.feathers,well…not too good either… rested her for 3days then gave her medication..i cant really see any improvement…she’s not dying or anything…i just want her to regain her strenght so i can return her to the main loft…
I am losing birds everyday from both my Modena loft and my Homers. It is amazing how quick some go and how long others take with the wasting aspect of it. This started only after I cleaned their lofts down to the dirt and replace with wooden floors. I was afraid I had stirred up some fungus they were inhaling. Apparently that is not the case. I isolate birds immediately and save a few under heat lamps that boost their imunw systems. In hind site, I probably should let them expire and will do so from now on.
hi, Good morning
I am Michael from malta and I race short and midille dist.
I use to change the product for thrico evrey 12 weeks
can you tell me what is the most effective product appart from these. I use ronidizol, dimitrizol, carnizol, and fragil thanks for your help
regurds Michael
Hi Michael, I use the same ingredients as you do, but I change them more often: during the season I treat the tricho at every two weeks, and the next time I change the product. I am not sure if this is the best, but all the fanciers say something else…this is why I created this topic, to find more opinions.